Chanel is Over the Micro-mini

The house’s Fall 2022 couture collection featured ankle-length bottoms, cowboy boots and minimalist makeup.

After months of micro mini-skirts and beyond long bell bottoms this season, Chanel proposes an alternative: ankle length. Taking her inspiration from the original 1930s skirt suit, designed by Coco herself, creative director Virginie Viard sent an assortment of long, slinky gowns and separates down the Fall 2022 couture runway in Paris today. The highest hem evoked images of 2000s capris, while the longest just grazed the tops of the black cowboy boots seen on most models.

Wait a minute. Cowboy boots at Chanel? Absolutely. Mlle herself enjoyed riding and house ambassador Charlotte Casiraghi is a noted equestrian who opened a previous Chanel couture show on horseback. The French house even took over the Étrier de Paris equestrian centre for this season’s couture presentation, letting the artist Xavier Veilhan transform the space into a dreamy optical illusion.

However nothing could distract from the craftsmanship that has become synonymous with Chanel. Lace was painted in resin. A bell-skirted coat dress was beaded in sequins by the renowned atelier Lesage. Tufts of ostrich feathers could be seen peaking out of a textured black tweed trench coat. And a white tulle trapeze dress was showered in green embroidered leaves, reminiscent of a French garden.

In addition, the collection featured quintessential Chanel-isms like tweed, pastels and strong suiting. The strongest silhouettes were those towards the show’s end, as lighter chiffons and minimal embellishment replaced heavy fall fabrics and over-the-top ornaments. It’s not easy to make couture look effortless and wearable, but Viard did just that, and it was smart to pair the ensembles with minimal accessories and barely-there makeup.

Celebrate Viard’s longer looks with images from the Chanel Fall 2022 couture collection below.